Winemakers have reacted with horror to a French government plan that would see millions of gallons of precious Burgundy turned into hand sanitizer, the second blow they have received this week.
According to French news agency AFP, Burgundy winemakers gave a thumbs down this week to a government package of financial relief for lost sales from the 25 percent tariff imposed by US President Donald Trump. The tariff was imposed last October after Washington won a long-running battle at the World Trade Organization over state subsidies to European aircraft manufacturer Airbus.
The move took a heavy toll, with US imports of French wine dropping nearly half almost immediately, and Burgundy producers were especially hard hit, AFP reported.
"We're not happy," said Thiebault Huber, president of the federation of official Burgundy appellations after France's finance minister, Bruno Le Maire announced a raft of measures to help winemakers reeling from the double blow of tariffs and the Covid-19 pandemic. On Tuesday, the BIVB announced that sales could fall by as much as half thanks to the restrictions around restaurants and bars caused by the pandemic.
Earlier this week, Le Maire announced that payroll taxes and other business charges would be waived for French winemakers hit by lost sales to the huge American market. The government also said it would also let producers distill up to two million hectoliters (equivalent to nearly 1.7 million barrels) of their excess stock into ethanol – which can be used to make sanitising hand gel during the coronavirus crisis. The government will buy the ethanol at a guaranteed price, for a total of €140 million ($150m).
But unlike many other winemakers in France, Burgundy producers generally have little trouble selling as much of their prized whites and reds as they can make – and, in some cases, can pretty much name their price. Burgundy produces the most expensive wines on earth, with some topping $20,000 a bottle.
They also have some of the biggest overseas sales – around half of all Burgundy wine is exported, and the US is the biggest buyer, with 20 percent of the total.
The government offer valued the distillable wine wine at just €70 per hectoliter, or 70 cents a liter. Given the average price for even the most basic Bourgogne Rouge currently sits at $28 a bottle on average, the producers' objections are understandable.
"We're not interested in distillation," said Huber, adding that he was "furious".
Louis-Fabrice Latour, head of the growers' professional body the BIVB, agreed.
"We don't have any excess production in Burgundy. We only have two years' worth of stocks, so we don't distill."
"What we want is help for our exports," he said, adding that Burgundy sales outside France had fallen 8.7 percent by value in the first quarter.
Trump targeted French along with British, German and Spanish wines with the tariff, and his administration later threatened whopping 100 percent tariffs on all European wine imports.
French wine associations last week had urged the government to unblock €500m in aid, including a bigger emergency distillation plan for up to 3m hectolitres.
They have also denounced the apparent lack of progress on an EU compensation package of €250 million to help offset the Trump tariffs.
"We're putting billions of euros into Air France or Airbus, but we're not helping a sector in peril," Huber said.
勃艮第葡萄酒將變成洗手液?
勃艮第葡萄酒生產商對法國政府的一項計劃感到震驚,該計劃將使數百萬加侖的珍貴勃艮第葡萄酒變成洗手液,這是他們近日受到的第二次打擊。
據法新社報道,勃艮第葡萄酒生產商對政府因美國加征關稅所致損失而給予的財政救濟方案表示反對。2019年10月份,世貿組織認定歐洲對空客公司的補貼行為存在違規,美方隨后以此為依據對包括葡萄酒在內的歐洲產品加征25%的關稅。
報道稱,此舉給法國葡萄酒業帶來了巨大的損失,美國進口的法國葡萄酒幾乎立即下降了近一半,勃艮第生產商受到的打擊尤為嚴重。
法國財政大臣Bruno Le Maire近期宣布推出一系列措施來幫助生產商擺脫關稅和新冠疫情的雙重打擊,勃艮第法定產區聯合會主席Tiebault Huber對此表示:“我們不高興。”
勃艮第葡萄酒行業協會(BIVB)5月5日宣布,由于新冠肺炎大流行對餐廳和酒吧造成的限制,勃艮第葡萄酒銷售額可能下降多達一半。
上周早些時候,Le Maire宣布,對于在美國市場上的銷售損失而遭受打擊的法國生產商將免除工資稅和其他經營費用。政府還表示,將允許生產商將庫存的多達2億升(相當于近170萬桶)葡萄酒蒸餾為乙醇,可用于在疫情期間生產洗手凝膠。政府將以承諾價格購買乙醇,總金額為1.4億歐元。
然而,與法國許多葡萄酒生產商不同的是,勃艮第的葡萄酒生產商通常幾乎可以毫不費力地售盡他們所產的珍貴葡萄酒,在某些情況下甚至可以任意定價。勃艮第出產了世界上最昂貴的葡萄酒,其中一些價格高達每瓶20,000美元。
他們的海外銷售也非常可觀——勃艮第葡萄酒的大約一半用于出口,美國是最大的買家,占總數的20%。
政府對可蒸餾葡萄酒的估價為每千升700歐元,即每升70歐分。考慮到即使是最入門級的勃艮第葡萄酒目前的平均價格為每瓶28美元,生產商的反對也是可以理解的。
Huber說:“我們對蒸餾不感興趣。”他說,他“很生氣”。
BIVB主席Louis-Fabrice Latour表示贊同。“勃艮第葡萄酒沒有多余的產量。我們只有兩年的庫存,因此我們不會蒸餾。我們想要的是對出口的援助。”他補充說,今年第一季度,勃艮第在法國以外的銷售額下降了8.7%。
特朗普將法國、英國、德國和西班牙的葡萄酒一起列入征稅目標,他的政府隨后威脅要對所有歐洲進口葡萄酒征收高達100%的關稅。
法國葡萄酒協會近日曾敦促政府取消5億歐元的援助,其中包括一項規模更大的緊急蒸餾計劃,計劃上限為3億升。
他們還譴責歐盟2.5億歐元的補償方案明顯不足以幫助抵消特朗普的關稅影響。Huber說:“我們向法航或空客公司投入了數十億歐元,但并沒有幫助處于危機之中的葡萄酒業。”
華夏酒報記者 徐菲遠 譯自Wine-Searcher